“Coffee has arguably become one the most widely consumed beverages in India”. There, it’s been said! But boy, that was quite a gutsy statement to make in a nation where tea or rather ‘chaiya’, as we all fondly call it, is culturally a more opted beverage in Indian households. Traditionally, coffee consumption flourishes in South India, while many North Indian regions favour stronger spiced drinks like masala chai instead. But recently, there’s a growing trend amongst the younger generations across the country that has embraced a rich coffee culture. The high cost of gourmet coffee brands and cafes pushes this beverage to a new level, creating an elitist coffee culture.
So, let’s dial it back to discover the long history of this beverage in India – a history that stretches back centuries. If you’re one of those people who cannot start the day without groggily making their way to the brewing machines first thing in the morning, here’s an intriguing story that jolts you just like that cup of joe you’re holding in your hands right now.
7 BEANS THAT MADE HISTORY IN INDIA
The story of how coffee made its arrival to India is a fascinating one. Though not native to the subcontinent, it became deeply ingrained in Indian culture thanks to a smuggling adventure and the perfect growing conditions in the southern hills. It is said that a 17th century Sufi monk, Baba Budan was wandering through the chaos in the port city of Mocha, Yemen, when he found himself surrounded by locals, all captivated by a mysterious drink as dark as the night. One sip, and Baba Budan was hooked! He knew this discovery was too good to keep to himself and just had to be brought back home. At the time, Yemen held a complete monopoly over coffee production, to a point where it was made illegal to transport green coffee beans outside of their ports. But, Baba Budan couldn’t care less. Legend has it that he smuggled a handful of these precious coffee beans by hiding them in his beard. He made his journey back to India across the seas and the mountains and landed up at the southern hills of Coorg and Chikamagulur, Karnataka, where he planted these smuggled seeds – seven coffee beans that would give birth to India’s revolutionised beverage. There is some uncertainty between then and colonialism as to whether growing of these trees took place. However, while Baba Budan’s story is fascinating, there is still some uncertainty between then and colonialism as to when coffee trees were planted in India. Perhaps, Baba Budan shared these seven beans to seven of his friends across the regions and asked them to grow it in their backyards or maybe the Dutch, also professional smugglers at the time, planted their share of smuggled beans. But it wasn’t until the 19th century, that the British started cultivating, commercialising and making coffee a cash crop
WELCOME (YEDDE) TO COORG
“My family has been nurturing these plants here at the estate for generations. Coffee is practically in our DNA” says Mr Chengappa, a middle-aged man in his gumboots visible only from bust up, who was giving out instructions to his estate workers when I caught him in action. “It’s either this or the army, don’t forget the pandi (pork) curry and the rum we enjoy” he jokes. Just like him, almost every family in Coorg grows coffee in their estates.
Coorg or Kodagu (region of the Kodavas) is a district in Karnataka, a southern state of India. Undeniably rich in culture and history, Coorg also boasts of abundant natural beauty, from fertile soil to natural shade conditions. Coffee has continued to grow steadily in these regions because of these ideal conditions which haven’t changed from the time of the kings in the 1600s. But, it wasn’t until the mid 1800s when the kingdom fell and the British took over coffee cultivation, making it more commercialised. The first ever commercial coffee estate was established by an Englishman named John Fowler in the year 1854. In time, many families in Coorg started growing coffee and it has become a tradition in Coorgi households ever since.
Soon, the 19th century saw a delightful twist in South India’s story. Coffee, initially a foreign import, was finally embraced and transformed into a local favourite. South Indians brewed their coffee strong, with creamy milk and a touch of sweetness from jaggery, creating a unique regional style. While coffee remains a home-brewed staple across most of India, South India also stood out when it came to harvesting coffee. Coorg and neighbouring regions are perhaps the only region in the world where coffee is grown, hand-picked and harvested in natural forests, making it unique compared to other harvesters around the world. Other countries even machine-dry their coffee, while in India it is sun-dried. This meticulous approach, while labour-intensive, results in coffee beans with an unparalleled depth of flavour.
Unlike mass-produced coffees, Indian coffee boasts a rich aroma and a smooth, well-rounded taste. Coorg’s unique climate and Kodava know-how has resulted in a coffee monopoly here. Coffee isn’t just Coorg’s identity but is also a backbone to its economy. Coorg’s economy is deeply intertwined with coffee, as it cultivates a remarkable 40% of India’s coffee beans. India is a major player in the global coffee game as well, ranking as the sixth-largest producer and fifth-largest exporter worldwide. Responsible for a noteworthy 3.14% of global coffee production, the country boasts a thriving industry – India isn’t shy about sharing its coffee bounty. With Coorg being the major contributor, Karnataka alone churns out an impressive 140,000 tons of coffee beans annually. This translates to a whopping 70% of India’s total coffee production.
Coffee in India is more than just a beverage or a profitable cash crop; it’s a cultural experience. From visiting coffee plantations and witnessing the meticulous harvesting process to indulging in a cup of freshly brewed coffee at a local cafe, Indian coffee culture offers a glimpse into the country’s warmth, hospitality, and deep-rooted traditions.
So, on your next visit to Coorg, visit us at Raho, take a moment to savour a cup of this delightful beverage and experience Coorg’s local coffee cultivation. Breathe in the aroma, appreciate the rich flavour, and immerse yourself in the unique coffee culture that India has to offer.
